Skincare and makeup — they’re the two most common tools for achieving a youthful, flawless daily look. And for most women, they go together like peanut butter and jelly!
That’s why Dr. Layke makes a point of knowing our stuff about makeup… by putting in plenty of research, and staying closely in touch with top makeup artists and formulators here in LA. To help clients get the most out of ALL their beauty tools.
No matter how well you’re taking care of your skin, wearing the wrong makeup can make all that work invisible. I see it all the time at my office. Here in Beverly Hills, where heavy makeup often reigns supreme, I’ve met with countless patients who actually looked more youthful when we removed their makeup…
All because of tiny makeup mistakes they didn’t even realize they were making!
The 6 Most Common Makeup Mistakes (that will add years to your face!):
1. Drama Overload
Dark eyeshadows and lipsticks can give you a bold, dramatic look — which is why so many women love them (especially for special occasions). So I’m not going to suggest you toss them out altogether.
But be aware, they’re very unforgiving, especially if you have lines around your eyes or mouth that makeup can bleed into.
To get around this problem — and still wear a look that fits your style — I have two tips:
- For everyday wear, ditch the dark colors in favor of neutral tones like nudes, roses, light browns, and soft pinks.
- For those occasions when you want that extra “oomph”… do your darndest to make it stick in place! For most people, that means using a lip or eye primer before applying makeup, AND a setting spray afterward.
2, Could Cake Make You Look Older?
Most of the foundations on the market focus on mattifying skin, to prevent nasty oil buildup (and keep makeup from sliding off.) Sounds great, right? Problem is, mattifying formulas can be cakey or chalky — and seriously emphasize even minor imperfections, like fine lines or enlarged pores.
Instead, search hard for liquid foundations that have words like “glow,” “dew,” or “hydrate” on the packaging. These formulas are likely to look fresh and healthy, and reflect light away from imperfections. Even better, if you don’t need intensive coverage (most people don’t!), go for a tinted moisturizer or BB cream, to even your skin tone without creating a skin-aging “mask.”
3. Shimmer, Shine, and Age?
It’s easy to be drawn to shimmery makeup products. They look enticing in their packaging, and seem like a surefire way to get a healthy glow. But these days, makeup is on shimmer overload, blushes, bronzers, and even primers nowadays often contain flecks of sparkle — and unfortunately, if you have any “bad texture” at all (like fine lines, dry patches, or enlarged pores), it will only draw attention to them.
To safeguard your face from “glitter aging,” use highlighters sparingly, and ONLY on the high points of your face (like your cheekbones, the center of your forehead, and the bridge of your nose). Stick to flatter, non-shimmering shades when it comes to the rest of your products. (Even better, focus on having a skincare routine that gives you a natural glow — so you don’t have to go the “artificial” route!)
4. From Point A to Point B
There’s one final issue that can’t be overlooked…The application process! The truth is, how you get your foundation from its packaging to your face, is just as important as what formula you’re using.
Choose the wrong applicator, and you’ll wind up with a patchy or streaky look… which can actually create the illusion of more lines, enlarged pores, or even dark spots!
So here’s the definitive guide on how to apply foundation:
- If you’re using your fingers, you’re not getting smooth, even coverage — and as a result, your skin won’t look smooth and even. I don’t recommend it.
- If you’re using a foundation brush, you might be onto something — if and only if it’s high-quality. Choose something with soft, densely-packed bristles for a gentle application that won’t look streaky. I recommend brushes with caution.
- If you’re using a slightly damp blending sponge (the egg-shaped ones that have been so popular lately), ding ding ding! According to most makeup artists, this is the BEST possible method for streak-free, youthful-looking coverage, and a dewy, even finish. I recommend this one wholeheartedly!
5. Heavy Liner on the Bottom Lid
A look beloved of goth-inspired high school students or Bridget Bardot fans, lining your bottom eyelid can look fantastically dramatic. But the problem with using heavy liner on your bottom lid (especially when it’s not done professionally) is that it accentuates all the fine little lines around the eyes, makes your eyes appear smaller, and drags down the whole face. All things that can add years to your face.
If you must use liner on your lower lid choose eyeshadow over hard pencils. Dark brown shadow applied with an angled brush can offer a much softer line and will still blend in with any black liner on your top lashes. And absolutely only ever wear a line on the bottom lids if you’re also wearing a line on the top lids.
6. Going Barmy With the Blush
Once upon a time, more blush was more beautiful, but those days are long gone. Today, too much blush not only ages you but brings about thoughts of the circus. But, it’s also important where you place that blush, and what shade you choose.
Firstly, don’t ever apply blush to the apples of your cheeks (even though it was probably taught to you that way). Instead, start in the center of the cheekbone and brush lightly upwards along the cheekbone, taking care to keep it on the cheekbone. Blush below the cheekbone can pull down the face and make it appear as if you have jowls. Blend well. Upward sweeping also helps to lift your face.
To find the perfect color, try using this makeup artist trick: pinch your own cheeks and then try to match that shade the best that you can. Choose a creamy formula over powder as this will prevent your blush from sticking to fine lines and wrinkles.
Great Makeup Can Never Replace Great Skincare
Keep in mind, makeup only goes so far. Most of my clients enjoy wearing makeup, have fun trying new products and shades, and like using it to hide or enhance certain features, and that’s great. Seriously, makeup is not the enemy! However, a great makeup routine doesn’t replace great skincare. And if your skincare routine isn’t up to par, flawless makeup will be very hard to achieve.
So no matter what your makeup style is like — from barely-there natural to bold and dramatic — always begin and end your day with a thorough, high-quality skin-nourishing regimen. And when you walk into a room and every head turns, well, those results will speak for themselves!
Article updated: April 3, 2018
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